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Are you familiar with HDTV basics? Are HDTV and DTV the same thing? What do I need to know before purchasing a new TV?

Are you thinking about buying a new TV right now, or at some time in the near future.

Is your Television Ready for the Transition from Analog to DTV on February 17th, 2009?

THIS DATE is much closer than you realize.

A better understanding of the transition to Digital TV, and knowing these HDTV basics, will help you to be ready when it’s time to consider a new television.

Buying a new television today can be overwhelming and involves more than just visiting your local television or electronics store. Shopping for a Digital TV or an HDTV can be confusing with all the abbreviations, terms, resolution, dpi, formats and the options that you can get on televisions today. And you thought that purchasing a new car was bad.

So What Do Consumer’s Need to Know

There are so many decisions confronting today’s unprepared consumer, just trying to navigate through this complex maze can be a daunting experience. However, many of these frustrations can be avoided by doing some homework before hand.

Things To Know Before You Go

What is Digital TV … and is Not. What is the Digital TV Transition… and how it will affects you. How is HDTV different from all other television formats … and How. Understand what you want and need, so you’re not Sold something YOU don’t want or need!

So Where Do You Start? Familiarize yourself with the different Terms and Classifications

TV Classifications:

NTSC Analog TV- (National Television Systems Committee), Traditional TV; now being phased out on February 17th.

ATSC Digital TV – (Advanced Television Systems Committee), DTV;

This is “SDTV” – Standard Definition TV – the new, (digital) TV Standard;

replaces NTSC Analog TV.

Integrated HDTV – or simply, HDTV; DTV with an Internal (built-in) High Definition TV Receiver.

This is able to Receive and Display all ATSC TV Signals – Including HDTV Signals.

Digital-HDTV – ‘Capable’ or ‘Ready’- Digital TV that is able to DISPLAY HDTV – BUT ONLY with the addition of an EXTERNAL HDTV Receiver.

EDTV – Enhanced Digital TV – a classification* describing Digital TV’s that are basically ‘high-end’ SDTV’s. While these often include some type of technical features, added by the Manufacturer to enhance the picture, nevertheless, the picture quality does NOT equal HDTV. Technically, there is virtually no visual difference between an SDTV and an EDTV – with the possible exception of the higher price.

* For many Consumers, this classification is of questionable value; by paying more for a TV tagged “EDTV” the consumer is only getting what can best be described as an ‘upgraded’ SDTV. The question is, how ‘up-graded’ is it, if the TV simply meets the standard for SDTV?

Different TV Display Technologies:

CRT – (Cathode Ray Tube):Traditional TV Technology – The established standard for television displays; best overall value – picture quality and cost; major drawback is bulk and mass as size increases. Plasma Display – Ultra-thin design, High Contrast Ratings, ‘Fixed Pixel’ Display: Size up to 60+ inches; some display limitations – costly, high burn-in risk; picture quality affected by inability to display black-color; displays are extremely heavy and fragile; picture quality lost as pixels fade; many Plasma Displays do not display HDTV resolutions. Development continues.

LCD – Liquid Crystal Display: Thin design, size limitations; good computer monitor; sharp picture for static displays; problems displaying images in motion; many LCD Displays are not HDTV capable. Development continues.

LCoS (Liquid Crystal on Silicon) – Improved LCD Technology, may hold promise for future HDTV display; costly; manufacturing problems continue; development ongoing.

DLP (Digital Light Processor) – Uses Chip and Software Technology – exciting, alternative display technology; excellent HDTV display; eliminates most short comings of other technologies; moderate cost; some viewers question “softer” picture, and use of “color-wheel;” promising future – development continues.

TV Display Configuration:

Aspect Ratio

The width to height ratio of a TV Monitor or Program.

Aspect Ratio can apply to either the television monitor (hardware), or to the TV program format.

Traditional – (4:3) aspect ratio; the display has ‘square’ appearance. All Analog TV programs are in 4:3 aspect ratio.

New ‘Wide Screen’ (16:9) aspect ratio; the display is rectangular.

Digital TV (SDTV) programs can be in either 4:3 or 16:9 aspect ratio.

HDTV is always in 16:9 aspect ratio.

As you can see, consumers have a number of decisions to make, long before making their final buying decision. Understanding the basics of HDTV requires us to become familiar with an array of strange-new ‘tech-speak’ terms.

Examples:

Aspect Ratio – width to height (4:3) or (16:9); refers to the TV Display and to TV Programs.

Picture Resolution – 720-p; 1080-i; 480-i/p; – and recently added, 1080-p.

Progressive Scan – display method (“p” in 720-p)

Interlaced Scan – display method (“i” in 1080-i)

D/A – A/D – digital to analog and analog to digital converter

STB – Set-top Box (aka: Receiver, Tuner, Decoder or Descrambler)

OTA – ‘over-the-air’ or ‘off-the-air’ – refers to Local TV Broadcasts

These are just a few of the new terms you will encounter.

The Digital TV Enigma

As consumers begin their quest for information about the Digital and HDTV, they soon notice what seems to be an “Information-Void.” Trying to get Useful, and Reliable information about what is needed to buy a digital television set can seem difficult.

Try asking questions regarding basic HDTV; for example: Does the Transition from Analog TV to Digital TV mean that everyone is forced to buy an HDTV? or, What is the difference between SDTV and HDTV; or What is needed to have High Definition TV reception in your home? Now compare the different answers you get or the lack of knowledge on the sales persons part.

Note: The seller must disclose or have posted information regarding the lack of digital capabilities of any television for sale to you the consumer. This is a government mandate.

In stark contrast, at the opposite extreme, is the continuous flow of ‘misinformation’ and ‘disinformation.’ This flood of unreliable information has inundated the general public. The path to useful and reliable information is littered with inaccuracies, fallacies and myths. And this is further aggravated by misleading advertising and marketing ploys.

As an example, here’s a question asked repeatedly by perplexed consumers concerning the transition from Analog TV to Digital TV:

“Can you tell me if it’s true, that “normal” TV is going to be stopped and everyone will be forced to buy an HDTV? I don’t believe they can do this … But if it’s true, when will it happen?”

Okay, that’s really two questions…

The answer to the first, is of course – NO, it’s not true. At least not in the way the question is posed. While it is true that “normal TV” (meaning traditional NTSC-Analog TV) will end, replaced by ATSC-Digital TV, you will NOT have to buy an HDTV!

IMPORTANT NOTE: The FCC’s mandatory transition from Analog TV to Digital TV does NOT refer to, nor mean ‘High Definition Television!’

Note: If you choose to keep your analog television you can purchase a converter box that will make viewing your television possible. There are coupons to help with this purchase on the website listed below and it is free to print.

This highlights one of the primary sources of so much of the public’s confusion concerning Digital TV and HDTV. These are two discrete terms, yet they are frequently used incorrectly – as if they were interchangeable words with the same meaning. They are NOT the same; they designate two distinctly different classifications of television.|

High Definition Television is ‘digital’; however, HDTV is just one (1) of eighteen(18) ‘Digital TV Formats’ designated in the ATSC Standard.

It is important for consumers to understand that ‘Digital TV’ does NOT mean HDTV.

Digital television’s “Standard Definition TV” – SDTV – is NOT equal to HDTV – High Definition Television.

So, it’s up to each consumer to inform her/him-self on the basics of Digital-HDTV.

But – Be careful!

Don’t take anything for granted; don’t accept statements at face value.

Verify everything you hear or read about Digital-HDTV, comparing it with different sources.

The Digital Difference

Digital TV signals are made up of coded instructions – (the same ‘bits’ of ‘ones and zeros’ that make your computer work, and give life to ‘CD’s’ and ‘DVD’s') – which are transmitted to your Digital Receiver, (aka: Tuner, Decoder or Set-Top-Box “STB”) which in turn deciphers the code.

A Digital TV receiver isn’t concerned with signal strength, or what conditions exist between your set and the transmitter. As long as the signal gets to the receiver, and the code can be read, the Digital TV is able to reproduce a near-perfect picture – virtually identical to the original, back in the TV Studio.

A distinct advantage of digital broadcasting is that bad reception is a thing of the past. One reason Cable TV caught on is because it delivers clear TV pictures without regard to the viewer’s location. Viewers don’t have to be constantly adjusting the antenna in an attempt to “tune-in” a weak signal from a distant transmitter to get a clear picture. Digital TV (DTV) eliminates the “snow” and “ghosting” caused by the weak signals from distant or blocked transmitting towers. If the analog television set does not receive a strong, undistorted signal from the tower, you will not get a perfectly clear picture.

Both digital and analog television signals weaken, the farther they travel away from the transmitting tower. On an analog TV, the picture slowly deteriorates from bad to worse as the distance between tower and receiver increases. However, the picture on a digital set will stay perfect until the signal becomes too weak for the receiver to distinguish between a (1) and a (0), at which point the image disappears completely.

This has been referred to as “the cliff effect” – the picture remains stable until it abruptly “drops off” the screen. This might be compared to sending Morse Code. As long as the person at the other end can make out the dots and dashes being transmitted they will be able to read the message. Once they lose the distinction between a dot and a dash they lose the message. Digital TV acts the same way; instead of sending dots and dashes, it sends millions of (1′s) and (0′s) every second.

As long as the TV Receiver can read the (1′s and 0′s) it displays a virtually perfect picture. The bottom line … you either receive a 100% quality image, or nothing at all. What this means to the digital television viewer, is not having to worry about getting a “bad” picture. Either you have a picture or you don’t. However, if you are receiving over-the-air, “OTA” (Over the Air) broadcasts, it is crucial for the antenna to be accurately directed towards the signal source – the transmitting tower of the station you are watching.

Adding an “H” to ‘DTV’ = W O W! While our objective is to become familiar with HDTV basics, so far we have focused mainly on Digital TV – DTV. What then is HDTV – High Definition Television? And what is the difference between DTV and HDTV?

DTV differs from NTSC-analog TV in the technology used to transmit the signal. And we looked at some of the reasons why Digital is better than analog. But when comparing Digital TV or “SDTV” (Standard Definition TV) to HDTV, the difference is as night and day! High Definition Television is digital television – BUT … It’s IMPORTANT to understand that Digital TV does NOT mean HDTV! HDTV is just ONE of (18) ATSC designated formats that comprise Digital TV. In High Definition Television, the picture displayed on your television screen begins as an HDTV signal captured by HDTV Cameras, (or converted from film or another format with HDTV Equipment). The HDTV Signal is transmitted to the HDTV Receiver and finally displayed on an HDTV-Capable TV Monitor. But it must also meet the ATSC Standards for High Definition Television in order for it to be “true” HDTV.

Note: It is more than likely you will confront mis-information stating that Digital TV in various configurations is ‘high definition television.’ This is NOT True! You may also be told that as long as the TV meets one or two criteria, or if it has been enhanced by the Manufacturer, using some proprietary engineering “magic,” this makes it – “as good as” – HDTV. Again, NOT TRUE!

If what you want is HDTV, be sure the television you are considering, is really “True” High Definition Television. How Do you Know a TV is – HDTV? To answer this question a ‘bit’ of basic TV technology will be helpful.

It will be helpful in understanding some of the basic elements of HDTV by educating yourself. After all, this is a discussion about Digital-HDTV – possibly the most significant ‘leap forward’ in consumer-technology to impact our society in more than a century!

The image you see on your television screen is comprised of a series of horizontal lines. An electron gun ‘shoots’ energy beams (light) which strike a layer of phosphor on the inside surface of the picture tube, causing it to glow. These glowing lines create the image displayed on your TV screen. How they are formatted, which resolution is used, what standards are met, are some of the factors that determine the type of television picture you will receive.

TV Resolution.The quality of the picture displayed on the TV screen is primarily the result of the television’s “resolution.” Put simply, TV ‘resolution’ refers to how many horizontal lines are displayed on the TV screen.

Note – Although the horizontal lines are counted, (in this instance) this is referred to as the “Vertical resolution,” because the lines are counted from top to bottom – or vertically. TV Resolution is sometimes expressed as the total ‘pixel’ count, which is a product of the number of lines and number of pixels per line

Why Is “Wide-Screen” TV The DTV Standard?

DTV sets are sold in two ‘Aspect Ratios.’ Aspect Ratio refers to the ratio between the horizontal (width) measurement and the vertical (height) measurement of the screen. This ratio is also used in reference to how the picture is transmitted and displayed on the screen. The two aspect ratios used in DTV are (4:3) and (16:9). That is, (4) units wide by (3) units high, and (16) units wide by (9) units high respectively. Your NTSC-analog television has an aspect ratio of (4:3); the screen appears almost ‘square’ because it has just slightly more width than height. For instance, a (4′) wide screen would have a height of (3′).

Go to the link below to find more information on the Analog to DTV Transition on February 17th, 2009 before your left in the dark.

This brief introduction to Digital TV and HDTV basics, provides an overview (intentionally simplified) of how DTV differs from traditional Analog TV, and how HDTV differs from Digital-SDTV; and a little about the Transition from Analog TV to Digital TV. This is just a start towards a better understanding of Digital TV. Now that you’re familiar with some of the basics, you are better prepared to begin considering which Digital HDTV is right for you.

http://inform4you.googlepages.com

I have been a health insurance broker for over a decade and every day I read more and more “horror” stories that are posted on the Internet regarding health insurance companies not paying claims, refusing to cover specific illnesses and physicians not getting reimbursed for medical services. Unfortunately, insurance companies are driven by profits, not people (albeit they need people to make profits). If the insurance company can find a legal reason not to pay a claim, chances are they will find it, and you the consumer will suffer. However, what most people fail to realize is that there are very few “loopholes” in an insurance policy that give the insurance company an unfair advantage over the consumer. In fact, insurance companies go to great lengths to detail the limitations of their coverage by giving the policy holders 10-days (a 10-day free look period) to review their policy. Unfortunately, most people put their insurance cards in their wallet and place their policy in a drawer or filing cabinet during their 10-day free look and it usually isn’t until they receive a “denial” letter from the insurance company that they take their policy out to really read through it.

The majority of people, who buy their own health insurance, rely heavily on the insurance agent selling the policy to explain the plan’s coverage and benefits. This being the case, many individuals who purchase their own health insurance plan can tell you very little about their plan, other than, what they pay in premiums and how much they have to pay to satisfy their deductible.

For many consumers, purchasing a health insurance policy on their own can be an enormous undertaking. Purchasing a health insurance policy is not like buying a car, in that, the buyer knows that the engine and transmission are standard, and that power windows are optional. A health insurance plan is much more ambiguous, and it is often very difficult for the consumer to determine what type of coverage is standard and what other benefits are optional. In my opinion, this is the primary reason that most policy holders don’t realize that they do not have coverage for a specific medical treatment until they receive a large bill from the hospital stating that “benefits were denied.”

Sure, we all complain about insurance companies, but we do know that they serve a “necessary evil.” And, even though purchasing health insurance may be a frustrating, daunting and time consuming task, there are certain things that you can do as a consumer to ensure that you are purchasing the type of health insurance coverage you really need at a fair price.

Dealing with small business owners and the self-employed market, I have come to the realization that it is extremely difficult for people to distinguish between the type of health insurance coverage that they “want” and the benefits they really “need.” Recently, I have read various comments on different Blogs advocating health plans that offer 100% coverage (no deductible and no-coinsurance) and, although I agree that those types of plans have a great “curb appeal,” I can tell you from personal experience that these plans are not for everyone. Do 100% health plans offer the policy holder greater peace of mind? Probably. But is a 100% health insurance plan something that most consumers really need? Probably not! In my professional opinion, when you purchase a health insurance plan, you must achieve a balance between four important variables; wants, needs, risk and price. Just like you would do if you were purchasing options for a new car, you have to weigh all these variables before you spend your money. If you are healthy, take no medications and rarely go to the doctor, do you really need a 100% plan with a $5 co-payment for prescription drugs if it costs you $300 dollars more a month?

Is it worth $200 more a month to have a $250 deductible and a $20 brand name/$10 generic Rx co-pay versus an 80/20 plan with a $2,500 deductible that also offers a $20 brand name/$10generic co-pay after you pay a once a year $100 Rx deductible? Wouldn’t the 80/20 plan still offer you adequate coverage? Don’t you think it would be better to put that extra $200 ($2,400 per year) in your bank account, just in case you may have to pay your $2,500 deductible or buy a $12 Amoxicillin prescription? Isn’t it wiser to keep your hard-earned money rather than pay higher premiums to an insurance company?

Yes, there are many ways you can keep more of the money that you would normally give to an insurance company in the form of higher monthly premiums. For example, the federal government encourages consumers to purchase H.S.A. (Health Savings Account) qualified H.D.H.P.’s (High Deductible Health Plans) so they have more control over how their health care dollars are spent. Consumers who purchase an HSA Qualified H.D.H.P. can put extra money aside each year in an interest bearing account so they can use that money to pay for out-of-pocket medical expenses. Even procedures that are not normally covered by insurance companies, like Lasik eye surgery, orthodontics, and alternative medicines become 100% tax deductible. If there are no claims that year the money that was deposited into the tax deferred H.S.A can be rolled over to the next year earning an even higher rate of interest. If there are no significant claims for several years (as is often the case) the insured ends up building a sizeable account that enjoys similar tax benefits as a traditional I.R.A. Most H.S.A. administrators now offer thousands of no load mutual funds to transfer your H.S.A. funds into so you can potentially earn an even higher rate of interest.

In my experience, I believe that individuals who purchase their health plan based on wants rather than needs feel the most defrauded or “ripped-off” by their insurance company and/or insurance agent. In fact, I hear almost identical comments from almost every business owner that I speak to. Comments, such as, “I have to run my business, I don’t have time to be sick! “I think I have gone to the doctor 2 times in the last 5 years” and “My insurance company keeps raising my rates and I don’t even use my insurance!” As a business owner myself, I can understand their frustration. So, is there a simple formula that everyone can follow to make health insurance buying easier? Yes! Become an INFORMED consumer.

Every time I contact a prospective client or call one of my client referrals, I ask a handful of specific questions that directly relate to the policy that particular individual currently has in their filing cabinet or dresser drawer. You know the policy that they bought to protect them from having to file bankruptcy due to medical debt. That policy they purchased to cover that $500,000 life-saving organ transplant or those 40 chemotherapy treatments that they may have to undergo if they are diagnosed with cancer.

So what do you think happens almost 100% of the time when I ask these individuals “BASIC” questions about their health insurance policy? They do not know the answers! The following is a list of 10 questions that I frequently ask a prospective health insurance client. Let’s see how many YOU can answer without looking at your policy.

1. What Insurance Company are you insured with and what is the name of your health insurance plan? (e.g. Blue Cross Blue Shield-”Basic Blue”)

2. What is your calendar year deductible and would you have to pay a separate deductible for each family member if everyone in your family became ill at the same time? (e.g. The majority of health plans have a per person yearly deductible, for example, $250, $500, $1,000, or $2,500. However, some plans will only require you to pay a 2 person maximum deductible each year, even if everyone in your family needed extensive medical care.)

3. What is your coinsurance percentage and what dollar amount (stop loss) it is based on? (e.g. A good plan with 80/20 coverage means you pay 20% of some dollar amount. This dollar amount is also known as a stop loss and can vary based on the type of policy you purchase. Stop losses can be as little as $5,000 or $10,000 or as much as $20,000 or there are some policies on the market that have NO stop loss dollar amount.)

4. What is your maximum out of pocket expense per year? (e.g. All deductibles plus all coinsurance percentages plus all applicable access fees or other fees)

5. What is the Lifetime maximum benefit the insurance company will pay if you become seriously ill and does your plan have any “per illness” maximums or caps? (e.g. Some plans may have a $5 million lifetime maximum, but may have a maximum benefit cap of $100,000 per illness. This means that you would have to develop many separate and unrelated life-threatening illnesses costing $100,000 or less to qualify for $5 million of lifetime coverage.)

6. Is your plan a schedule plan, in that it only pays a certain amount for a specific list of procedures? (e.g., Mega Life & Health & Midwest National Life, endorsed by the National Association of the Self-Employed, N.A.S.E. is known for endorsing schedule plans) 7. Does your plan have doctor co-pays and are you limited to a certain number of doctor co-pay visits per year? (e.g. Many plans have a limit of how many times you go to the doctor per year for a co-pay and, quite often the limit is 2-4 visits.)

8. Does your plan offer prescription drug coverage and if it does, do you pay a co-pay for your prescriptions or do you have to meet a separate drug deductible before you receive any benefits and/or do you just have a discount prescription card only? (e.g. Some plans offer you prescription benefits right away, other plans require that you pay a separate drug deductible before you can receive prescription medication for a co-pay. Today, many plans offer no co-pay options and only provide you with a discount prescription card that gives you a 10-20% discount on all prescription medications).

9. Does your plan have any reduction in benefits for organ transplants and if so, what is the maximum your plan will pay if you need an organ transplant? (e.g. Some plans only pay a $100,000 maximum benefit for organ transplants for a procedure that actually costs $350-$500K and this $100,000 maximum may also include reimbursement for expensive anti-rejection medications that must be taken after a transplant. If this is the case, you will often have to pay for all anti-rejection medications out of pocket).

10. Do you have to pay a separate deductible or “access fee” for each hospital admission or for each emergency room visit? (e.g. Some plans, like the Assurant Health’s “CoreMed” plan have a separate $750 hospital admission fee that you pay for the first 3 days you are in the hospital. This fee is in addition to your plan deductible. Also, many plans have benefit “caps” or “access fees” for out-patient services, such as, physical therapy, speech therapy, chemotherapy, radiation therapy, etc. Benefit “caps” could be as little as $500 for each out-patient treatment, leaving you a bill for the remaining balance. Access fees are additional fees that you pay per treatment. For example, for each outpatient chemotherapy treatment, you may be required to pay a $250 “access fee” per treatment. So for 40 chemotherapy treatments, you would have to pay 40 x $250 = $10,000. Again, these fees would be charged in addition to your plan deductible).

Now that you’ve read through the list of questions that I ask a prospective health insurance client, ask yourself how many questions you were able to answer. If you couldn’t answer all ten questions don’t be discouraged. That doesn’t mean that you are not a smart consumer. It may just mean that you dealt with a “bad” insurance agent. So how could you tell if you dealt with a “bad” insurance agent? Because a “great” insurance agent would have taken the time to help you really understand your insurance benefits. A “great” agent spends time asking YOU questions so s/he can understand your insurance needs. A “great” agent recommends health plans based on all four variables; wants, needs, risk and price. A “great” agent gives you enough information to weigh all of your options so you can make an informed purchasing decision. And lastly, a “great” agent looks out for YOUR best interest and NOT the best interest of the insurance company.

So how do you know if you have a “great” agent? Easy, if you were able to answer all 10 questions without looking at your health insurance policy, you have a “great” agent. If you were able to answer the majority of questions, you may have a “good” agent. However, if you were only able to answer a few questions, chances are you have a “bad” agent. Insurance agents are no different than any other professional. There are some insurance agents that really care about the clients they work with, and there are other agents that avoid answering questions and duck client phone calls when a message is left about unpaid claims or skyrocketing health insurance rates.

Remember, your health insurance purchase is just as important as purchasing a house or a car, if not more important. So don’t be afraid to ask your insurance agent a lot of questions to make sure that you understand what your health plan does and does not cover. If you don’t feel comfortable with the type of coverage that your agent suggests or if you think the price is too high, ask your agent if s/he can select a comparable plan so you can make a side by side comparison before you purchase. And, most importantly, read all of the “fine print” in your health plan brochure and when you receive your policy, take the time to read through your policy during your 10-day free look period.

If you can’t understand something, or aren’t quite sure what the asterisk (*) next to the benefit description really means in terms of your coverage, call your agent or contact the insurance company to ask for further clarification.

Furthermore, take the time to perform your own due diligence. For example, if you research MEGA Life and Health or the Midwest National Life insurance company, endorsed by the National Association for the Self Employed (NASE), you will find that there have been 14 class action lawsuits brought against these companies since 1995. So ask yourself, “Is this a company that I would trust to pay my health insurance claims?

Additionally, find out if your agent is a “captive” agent or an insurance “broker.” “Captive” agents can only offer ONE insurance company’s products.” Independent” agents or insurance “brokers” can offer you a variety of different insurance plans from many different insurance companies. A “captive” agent may recommend a health plan that doesn’t exactly meet your needs because that is the only plan s/he can sell. An “independent” agent or insurance “broker” can usually offer you a variety of different insurance products from many quality carriers and can often customize a plan to meet your specific insurance needs and budget.

Over the years, I have developed strong, trusting relationships with my clients because of my insurance expertise and the level of personal service that I provide. This is one of the primary reasons that I do not recommend buying health insurance on the Internet. In my opinion, there are too many variables that Internet insurance buyers do not often take into consideration. I am a firm believer that a health insurance purchase requires the level of expertise and personal attention that only an insurance professional can provide. And, since it does not cost a penny more to purchase your health insurance through an agent or broker, my advice would be to use Ebay and Amazon for your less important purchases and to use a knowledgeable, ethical and reputable independent agent or broker for one of the most important purchases you will ever make….your health insurance policy.

Lastly, if you have any concerns about an insurance company, contact your state’s Department of Insurance BEFORE you buy your policy. Your state’s Department of Insurance can tell you if the insurance company is registered in your state and can also tell you if there have been any complaints against that company that have been filed by policy holders. If you suspect that your agent is trying to sell you a fraudulent insurance policy, (e.g. you have to become a member of a union to qualify for coverage) or isn’t being honest with you, your state’s Department of Insurance can also check to see if your agent is licensed and whether or not there has ever been any disciplinary action previously taken against that agent.

In closing, I hope I have given you enough information so you can become an INFORMED insurance consumer. However, I remain convinced that the following words of wisdom still go along way: “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!” and “If you only buy on price, you get what you pay for!”

©2007 Small Business Insurance Services, Inc. http://www.smallbusinessinsuranceservices.com

C. Steven Tucker, is the President of Small Business Insurance Services, Inc. and has been a Licensed Mult-State Insurance Broker serving the small business and self-employed market for over a decade. Mr. Tucker believes an informed insurance consumer makes the best health insurance purchasing decisions. Mr. Tucker has written several articles that focus on small business health insurance, which can be read on a number of web sites.

Mr. Tucker’s blog can be read at http://www.smallbusinessinsuranceservices.vox.com

If you have general questions regarding health insurance, or you are in the market to purchase a health insurance plan, you can contact Mr. Tucker through his web site at http://www.smallbusinessinsuranceservices.com,

via Email at smallbusinssvcs@aol.com or by plone, toll-free at 1-866-SBIS123 (724-7123)

There is a great deal of history behind movie posters and movie poster collecting. Jules Cheret, who created 2 movie posters in the 1890′s, was the artist given credit for creating the first movie posters. By the end of the first decade of the 1900′s, movies had become a great source of public entertainment. In this time period, the movie poster would become a standard size known as the one sheet measuring 27″ x 41″.

In the early days, the names of actors did not appear on the posters, which the movie studios liked, because it meant paying actors less money. It was in this early period in movie history, however, that movie studios realized movie stars were as much of an attraction to the moviegoer as the movie itself. Thus, the movie star was born, and movie posters began showcasing actors’ names along with the title of the movie.

By the 1920′s, the golden age of silent movies, movie posters became more artistic and spectacular, with accomplished artists being hired by movie studios to paint portraits of the stars for posters. By the late 1920′s, movie poster images became sharper due to a new printing process developed by the Morgan Litho Company.

In the 1930′s, also known in the movie industry as “The Golden Age of Movies”, another style of movie poster was created, the half sheet. Major movies would sometimes get more than the two styles. However, due to the depression, many movie materials were being created more cheaply, causing a loss of quality in movie posters.

The dawn of World War II in 1941 saw many of the movie stars heading off to war and war was the major theme of movies at that time. The movie industry cut advertising costs and used cheaper paper for posters due to the paper shortage of wartime.

By the 1970′s, movie posters used photography, occasionally using drawing and painting styles. Movie posters at this time were being printed on a clay-coated paper, which gave them a glossy finish. Star Wars and Star Trek posters were the most popular posters of the time and are still collected by many today.

In the 1980′s, the age of the special effects blockbuster, the mini sheet was invented, and video stores became popular, thus the video store poster was created. Today, reprints of movie posters are mass-produced and sold in many stores or are just a click away on the Internet.There are several types of movie posters. Because of their rarity, the avid movie poster collector has concentrated on movie poster or theater art. These are the posters that are delivered and displayed by the movie theaters and then intended to be thrown away. Another type of movie poster is the commercial poster, which is mass-produced for direct sale to the public. Video posters are distributed to video rental stores for advertising material. Cable and TV posters are use as promotional material for TV stations for their programming. Like theater art, video posters and cable and TV posters are not produced for the public. Although not as valuable as theater art, these types of posters are still popular among collectors. Special promotion posters promote a movie along with a product. Finally, there are anniversary issues, limited editions, and special releases that are released in limited quantities and are gaining favor with the theatre art collector. Other types of movie posters include advance posters that promote a movie well ahead of the movie’s release. The award poster, which indicates that a movie has won an Academy award. The combo poster, advertising two movies instead of just one. The popular double-sided poster that has art on both sides, with the artwork reversed on one side of the poster. There are featurette posters highlighting short films or cartoons, review posters for when a movie gets a good review, serial posters for movie serials, and special distribution posters.

With the popularity of movie posters has come the necessity to create various sizes of posters. The first and most widely used poster is the one sheet, which is usually 27″ x 41″. The subway, also known as the two sheet, is larger but not exactly two times the size of the one sheet. The 3 sheet is three times the size of the one sheet measuring at 41″ x 81″. The 6 sheet is six times the size of the one sheet measuring of 81″ x 81″. There is also a 12 sheet approximately twelve times the size of a one sheet, and the colossal sized 24 sheet measuring 246″ x by 108″. Other sizes include the mini sheet, which is usually much smaller than the one sheet and comes in a variety of sizes, and the stock sheet issued for cartoons or other shorts.

As with all collectibles, condition is a great factor when placing a value on posters. A movie poster’s value is determined by demand, rarity, and condition. Poster collectors use the same grade system used by comic book collectors: mint (perfect), near mint, very good, good, fair, and poor.

For those who want to be serious movie poster collectors, you will need to know some things about taking care of your movie poster art.

Tips to retain the total collectable value of movie posters

Never alter the appearance of a poster. Do not fold, bend, tear, or punch holes in it even to hang it on your wall.

Never place a movie poster in direct sunlight. UV lights can also be harmful.

Don’t write on your poster, even on the back. Marks on the back can sometimes be seen from the other side, taking away from the poster’s value.

Never put tape on the front of a poster even to repair tears. If you do use tape, use acid free tape available from an art supply shop, and place the tape on the back. For expensive movie art take it to a professional to be restored. Posters can be restored the same way rare comic books are professionally restored.

When shipping posters use thick poster tubes or bubble envelopes.

For long time storage, frame, or place the poster in a plastic bag or tube, and keep it in a cool dry climate.

When framing a poster do not dry mount it, and use an acid free backing board.

Now that you know a little more about movie posters and movie poster collecting, go ahead, start collecting!

Posterlovers.com – Search through the world’s largest available collection of posters, fine art prints and photos. Liven up your walls with wall posters and art prints.

If you are considering entering a new target market, with an

existing or new product or service, it makes sense to first

systematically analyze the market in question via some

fundamental market evaluation criteria. It is not only

rational but most cost effective to determine if a new market

pursuit makes sense for your company before any significant

resources are further applied to the effort.

A “pass or fail” test of your targeted market is recommended

with your company’s core management team collective

involvement. Discussing the attributes of a given market and

further analyzing the business logic behind your intention to

participate in a new market will generate some very

enlightening conversation among your key decision makers.

Having various management functions present for the discussion

generates the most effective, broad base perspective,

appropriate “next step” for this strategic decision.

Besides further justifying or reducing your intentions to enter

a new market, weighing all the same attributes of any one

targeted market candidate against another target markets of

consideration can lead to a pivotal decision for the future

direction of your company. The opportunity cost of choosing

the “wrong” or “least rewarding” target market, given limited

corporate human and financial resources, can make or break

your collective ability to meet or exceed your company’s short

and long term growth objectives. Again, effectively utilizing

a simple, systematic evaluation checklist made up of some of

the market attributes listed below can be most time efficient

and cost effective.

Our list of market attributes cover various business sectors

and should not be considered a complete listing. To make this

evaluation exercise most productive for your management team,

first evaluate this list for relevancy and then add whatever

number of additional categories or attributes that correlate

to your company’s collective business priorities, resources,

risk/ reward tolerance levels and growth objectives.

MARKET PRODUCT / SERVICE LINE ATTRIBUTES:

* Market has a viable need for product application advancements or transitions

* Market is not dominated by short product life cycles

* Market allows for effective competitive advantage without extraordinary design, engineering or research cost

* Market allows for effective competitive advantage without extraordinary testing, certification or performance compliance issues

* Market offers opportunities for relatively high product / service gross profit margins

* Market does not require a large number of products or services to effectively compete

* Market share is gained more from product value or by high value service

* Market product/ service applications have worldwide demand

* Market product/ services are compatible with existing company core competencies

* Market product/ service offerings can be legally protected

* Market generally does not present extraordinary financial liability exposure

* Market demand is not extraordinarily seasonal or difficult to forecast

MARKET CUSTOMER ATTRIBUTES:

* Market offers a diversified mix of key customer product / service users

* Market offers financially stable customers

* Market offers relatively consistent purchase loyalty

* Market has existing product/ service users who will purchase other related offerings

* Market is supported long term by fundamental economic and demographic growth

MARKET SERVICE ATTRIBUTES:

* Market does not require an inordinate amount of after-the-sale service

* Market can be supported by a centralized customer service location

* Market does not require extensive service certification from 3rd party entities

* Market does not proliferate extraordinary product/ service warranties

* Market service requirements are not hazardous to company personnel

* Market does not require extraordinary distribution requirements

* Market share can be augmented with effective e commerce tactics

MARKET COMPETITION ATTRIBUTES:

* Market is dominated by well known competitors and suppliers

* Market is not dominated by one company (> 80% market share)

* Market has reputable competition, a quality image and history

* Market offers competitors that would be future acquirers or acquisition candidates

* Market is not targeted for international penetration via pricing tactics

* Market requires a reasonable level of financial and technical resource barriers to entry

MARKET GROWTH:

* Market has a proven history of growth

* Market has a high probability of long term future growth

* Market offers traceable causes of growth

* Market has worldwide growth

* Market has regional growth niches

* Market growth cannot be negatively affected by existing or pending legislation

Justification of entry into any new market or niche thereof

involves effectively identifying all viable competitors,

relevant market attributes, key market participants and their

market shares. Being able to strategically apply this

qualified information with respect to your known company

financial, technical and human resources can result in

extraordinary business growth opportunities.

If you want to further quantify this analysis you can

numerically weight each market attribute with your own

specific market attribute priorities and then give numerical

“grades” to any or all new market entry candidates to

calculate a weighted value for each new market opportunity.

Evaluating new business opportunities should be a well thought

out, straightforward, iterative process. Beginning the

evaluation process with a simple tool to justify further

analysis is a prudent procedure. The more effective your

analysis, the greater the probability your strategic decisions

will maximize return on investment.

About the Author:
Mark Smock is President of http://www.business-buyer-directory.com, the FIRST international business buyer directory of its kind. Business Buyer Directory provides a non-traditional means for proactive business buyers to locate businesses for sale worldwide that meet their exact registered purchase criteria.

“Can I wash my own dog? It can’t be that hard can it?” These are the words that I hear everyday as I go about my business working at the Pooch Parlor in Northern Idaho. Each time I walk a customer through this process, I find myself wondering why in the world something so simple is so doggone hard to explain. Washing your own dog may seem simple, but – only if you think and speak ‘dog’ – the language of your own dog.

I run a shop for full service and self-service dog grooming and bathing, and I LOVE it! There are dogs, and owners, of every size, every breed, and every temperament that come in to use the self-service doggie wash. Most owners are excited, some are scared, and some are cocky, but no matter who they are, or what they do for a living, there is nothing quite as intimidating for them as washing their own dog in public! The thought of doing this can give even the most confident person, performance anxiety, and for good reason! It is a true test of trust and tolerance and friendship for the person and dog companion. And, on a very basic level, it is an honest mirror for the owner, and how he or she deals with life, and with conflict. The likelihood of a successful experience for both is completely dependent upon the psychological relationship that exists between them, and, to a large extent, the ability of both to comprehend the body language of the other. You may be surprised to know that I have found that dogs are supremely better at reading their humans than their humans are of reading them. It is this relationship between human and canine, that shows itself without modesty during bathtime, and, keeps me coming to work day after day with a smile on my face.

My clients have been giving their dogs baths in my shops for 10+ years now, and, each year is more entertaining than the last when it comes to watching regular people washing their own regular dogs. The average person that comes through our doors is highly successful, which usually means – intelligent – and, because like attracts like, so is their dog. And, so why oh why, they ask me, should this simple task of cleaning their dog be so difficult? I ask them time and again, “Well, how well do you speak dog?” Invariably, their reply is a blank stare. So, this is the time to ask yourself, “How well do YOU speak dog?”

There is a lot to say about the theories of why dogs and humans behave the way they do, but I’m going to get back to the practical things to look for while bathing your own dog. The bottom line to remember is that your dog’s energy and personality traits are a mirror to your own. Take this into consideration when attempting to get him into the tub and have him be happy about it.

1. Deciding when to bathe your dog. Timing and Personality traits: Timing is important. Look at your own needs regarding timing to know how your dog will react. Are you the kind of person that is up for anything anytime? Or do you need to accomplish your day in a scheduled, systematic way? How do you do with new experiences? Do you find them refreshing and fun, or do you feel fearful until comfortable with a new activity? Your dog is going to deal with the bathtime experience in the same way you deal with life experiences. Remember that your dog is going to reflect your own personality traits – not necessarily the traits you show the world, but the traits that are truly inside you.

a. Fun-loving, extroverted, and social humans. If you enjoy regular physical activity, then so will your dog. For this type of person and dog, I suggest you take your dog out for a bout of exercise before the bath. In the city where I work, we are fortunate to have a designated beach on the lake just for dogs and their humans – dogbeach. There is a long path to run or walk on, and there is a large beach area to swim and play in. This is the perfect scenario for pre-bath timing. The dog can choose to get muddy, run, socialize, or just enjoy being outside. In any case, the dog is able to spend big reserves of energy outside in a fun way, just like letting human children play before naptime. If you love exercise, do something like this with your dog before taking him into your own tub or a professional facility for a dog bath. A common fault of the social dog and owner: Just because you are friendly, out-going person does not mean everyone wants to accept your friendly, and out-going gestures. It’s hard to fathom, I know, but it is true. If you have a very social dog (if you are a social person), it is easy to forget that many dogs (like their owners) are not social and do not appreciate the social requirements (like butt-sniffing) of others. Please remember to respect their space when in public or otherwise. Keep your dog restrained and under control, even if your dog has the friendliest intentions.

b. Non-social, active, or inactive humans. If your personality is not conducive to social interaction, then I still suggest that you walk your dog or do something that is comfortable within your life that involves light exercise before bathing your dog. Taking a walk with your dog does wonders to alleviate excess tension or stress for both human and dog. By getting rid of stressful energies during a walk, it does not present itself during bathtime. Getting exercise is especially important for those humans,( I mean dogs), that are highly nervous. I recommend giving your dog Valerian root (liquid form) or Rescue Remedy (liquid or spray) orally 30 minutes before the bath. Both of these products are natural remedies to calming down jittery nerves- and it works great for humans too. If timing is important in your life, take your dog to a self-service bathing facility when the least amount of people are there, usually early or late in the day. A common fault of the non-social dog and owner: they communicate poorly within their own species and with other species. Many people that tend towards isolation, often do this because they never figured out how to communicate effectively in human society. Their dogs typically have the same problem. I have seen it happen many times that owners of aggressive dogs unwittingly encourage their dog’s unwanted behavior, when they think they are doing the opposite. They do this by projecting their worrying thoughts about the ‘what-ifs’ of a social situation. Dogs of this type of owner act out their dog interpretations of their human owners signals. The dogs often pick up the ‘what-if’ fears of the human as the request of their human, actually creating the ‘what-if’ behavior to occur. Without human intervention and boundary setting by the owner (requiring advanced communication skills), it is quite common for this type of dog to exhibit increasingly aggressive behavior. Most owners are dismayed by their dog’s aggressive behavior, but they simply lack the skills required to communicate what behavior they will and won’t allow from their dog. I recommend that if you have a dog that is displaying increasingly aggressive behaviors to consult a professional dog behaviorist or trainer. Just a few simple tricks will convey an accurate message to a dog that is most likely misunderstanding your expectations.

Language barriers for humans and dogs. Its no surprise that miscommunication between owner and dog happens often. If you are a human that is finding you don’t understand why your dog does what he does, remember, you are learning a whole different language and culture. Give yourself time and give your dog time to understand each other. Just don’t expect your dog to act like a human, especially during conflict. It takes time and practice for anyone to learn a new human language. It’s no different learning dog language. We all know how to interpret a human smile in society. When a dog pulls his lips back over his teeth, it typically doesn’t mean he’s happy! Would a human dream of greeting a new acquaintance by sniffing their butt? Right! But, in doggie language, that’s the equivalent of shaking hands. A dog that shakes his head to get the slobber off of his mouth is no different than a person smoothing his slacks or dusting off his shirt to look more polite. The differences are huge, so give yourself and your dog a break if you have hit a communication block wall.

2. Deciding where to bathe your dog: There are not a lot of choices when it comes to bathing your dog. A. You can use your own bathtub at home which requires no human socializing – hard on your back, it’s very messy with extended after cleaning, and potentially traumatizing to human and dog. B. Bring your dog to a self-service doggie wash shop – easier on your back, requires some basic social skills by owner and dog, can be noisy and hairy, requires no after cleaning, and it does cost more than just the shampoo. C. Tie the dog to a fence and wash him with a hose in the yard (hopefully on a hot, sunny day) – not easy on the back, hard on the dog with cold water, potentially traumatizing for nervous dogs, but does not require human or dog socialiaing. D. Wash the dog in your nearest lake -which is very popular in my neck of the woods – hard on the back, requires advanced human and dog social skills, is potentially harmful to the environment, and how clean can you really get a dog in lakewater?

Regardless of where you wash your dog, take into account your own physical limitations, and your dog’s physical limitations. Is it worth wrecking your bathroom and hurting your back to wash your dog at home? For the clients I see, the answer is a definite, no! Emotional requirements are often a factor for dogs. For instance, (in general) Labrador retrievers have no issue being bathed in a lake (even though they don’t get clean), but they often resent being restrained in a tub with a sprayer hose pointed in their direction. For a farm dog that has never been away from home, tying them to the fence is a better solution than trucking them to the city and asking them to have manners in a grooming shop, or in a populated lake. At least next to the fence, even with cold water, they are comfortable with where they are and what is expected of them.

My vote is, of course to find a self-service doggie wash facility. The equipment is professional and easy to use, the water is warm (most of the time) and typically the dogs get treats when they walk out the door, which makes them happy campers. So, for those that want to know about washing your dog at a laundradog facility, here you go:

2. Getting your dog in the tub and getting him to stay there! At this grooming shop, the average dog that comes in for self-service is around 100lbs. All the dogs are washed at waist level where they stand on a grate in the tub. Getting them in the tub can be a trick. It’s kind of like asking a human to put ice skates on, and stand on the ice and not worry about how to do it. The easiest way for dog and human is to not give the dog time to decide whether or not he wants to. (Not the easiest task for shy or overprotective owners). The owner is given a large choker chain or cloth noose which goes around the dogs neck.

Leading: We have the owner quickly lead/pull the dog up the stairs with another person on the other end of the dog to give a quick boost on the butt end. The dog is on the grate, and in the tub before he has decided to be worried about it. Once the dog is in the tub, the owner hooks them in (not something you can do in your tub at home) to a variety of metal hooks inside the tub.

Choking: The dogs that are new to having a bath will sometimes turn in the tub and pull on the choker chain. We prefer the choker chain to a regular noose because the dog quickly learns with a choker that he is in control of whether or not he feels the choking sensation. The second the dog realizes he controls his own choking, AND realizes his owner is going to allow him to learn this (this is very difficult for the overprotective and/or mother types of owners-most all of us!), the pulling behavior stops. With a regular cloth noose, or one that does not self-regulate, the dogs will pull and pull and often never learn that they have the control over their own pulling more than any other behavior during the bath. Owners feel like they are directly causing their dog injury and should rescue them immediately when they hear them coughing and sometimes gagging. It is natural to feel concern over your dog choking, but it helps to think of the dog’s pulling and coughing similar to putting a toddler into his crib for a midday nap.

Many human toddlers HATE taking a nap and will cry hard enough to cough and gag. If parents rescue them from their cribs when this happens, they are reinforcing this coughing behavior for their child. Parents that monitor the crying, and coughing from a safe distance where the toddler cannot see them, soon find that their babies submit quietly to naptime without expecting to be rescued each time he utters a sound. Naps and baths may not be pleasant to begin with, but they are both essential habits of life. Dogs have the same learning behaviors regarding rescue. Owners that react with excessive concern over the pulling (as the dog is expecting), or crying and screaming tantrums, find they are only encouraging more pulling and tantrums from their dog. This point is so crucial that it is worth repeating. The more upset and worried the owner gets over the dogs behavior, the more they get of that dog behavior. If the owner is calm and without fear – and projects this to their dog, it is not long before the dog understands that pulling on the chain is only hurting himself, and that tantrums are a waste of their energy. When the owner believes everything is fine despite pulling and tantrums, the dog does too, and he stops the undesirable behavior accepts that today is bath day!

So many nurturing owners find this part difficult, but try to remember, when you expect your dog to learn how to control his own anxiety, he will learn, but it requires that you LET him learn. The best ways to learn to control ones own anxiety is to actually go through the experience of having the anxiety and dealing with it. If you are the type of owner that cannot allow your dog to experience this emotion without taking over and stopping the experience, your dog will learn to go into an anxious state more and more easily because of the reaction that he can expect from his owner. This becomes upsetting for both dog and owner and as you can see becomes an escalating cycle. If you allow your dog to go through this experience of the bath, anxiety and all, you will see that they will calm down and before you know it, you have a dog that allows you to bathe him! And having clean dog is essential to most dog owners. When your dog does calm down, i.e. quits pulling on the noose and allows the bath experience, that is the right time to express heightened emotion of happiness through praise and treats. If you take this time to praise your dog, it won’t be long before your dog asks to be washed with a happy, wanting-to-please attidude.

However, as with any rule, there are a few exceptions: old, very young, asthmatic, and dogs with neck or throat problems should be closely watched if they exhibit excessive pulling on the choker chain.

Ignore or not to Ignore: Most of the time, I recommend to owners to simply and quietly ignore their dogs protesting to get the behavior to stop (and it does), with the only exception being a small puppy (like a yorkie) or an old and fragile dog. Both the young and the old dogs that are not used to baths can injure their tracheas or create a medical problem (like asthma) if their nervous behaviors are allowed to escalate. It is in this circumstance that I tell the owners to use a harness to hook the dogs in the tub or in the case of a small and wild puppy, to use a sink or bucket in which they can immerse the dog in warm, soapy water. Puppies are wired to swim and that’s what they do if they find their bodies in water. Swimming is easier to work with than a freaking out jumping bean. If you do choose to ignore your dog’s protesting to the bath, REMEMBER to give lots of praise when the dog show’s signs of acceptance and/or begins to calm down.

Drying Your Dog: Drying a dog depends on the type of hair, type of temperament and grooming experience the dog has. If you have a shorthaired dog, towel drying is generally adequate. In the grooming shop, we use high-power dryers that blow the water out of thick or double-coated dogs like shepards, collies, and huskies – and in this case – standard poodles.

Put cotton in the dog’s ears before you begin as the dryer is loud. Make sure there is a minimum of play in the noose or chain that connects the dog to the tub, as the more room the dog has to throw a tantrum, the more room he’ll use. Start the dryer on the back end of the dog and aim the dryer side to side moving towards the head until the water is not dripping off the dog any longer. Most private owners go home with their dogs still dripping because of the tantrum factor. This is where the above information comes into play. The majority of dogs are nervous at first, but they quickly learn that the air is only loud, not painful. If the owner stays calm, the dog will quickly find this state during the drying process.

There are a few more minor steps that do occur in the grooming shop, such as brushing, nail trimming, anal expression, ear plucking and cleaning, teeth brushing and scaling and more. You can check out more ‘how to’ information on these specific techniques at www.thepoochparlor.net. Regardless of who you are or what you do for a living, the chances of your dog having a pleasant experience during the bath is highly dependent upon the ability of the dog’s owner to understand his or her own needs regarding life and society. Consider all the factors, energy reserves of your dog – spend them before the space wherever you go will increase your odds for success. Consider how much you actually do know about dog language. Above all else, remember that you, the owner, are in charge, and that if your dog is temporarily distressed with a new situation, you have to stay calm long enough to allow your dog to understand and accept the experience. It’s a curious notion that a human would have to delve into the basics of his or her own psychological needs to give their dog a great bath experience, but if you do that, you and your canine friend will have many years of happy and successful bathing experiences.

Author DuAnn Lustig-Chambers has been grooming since 1997 and owns Pooch Parlor Pet Groomer Training Academy in Sandpoint, Idaho.

Author: DuAnn Lustig-Chambers
Owner/Instructor/Dog Behaviorist Pooch Parlor Groomer Training Academy
210 Triangle Dr. Ste. D
Ponderay, ID 83852